Set back from the hubbub but within touching distance of the action, Contemporary Dutch restaurant Hemelse Modder represents the best of central Amsterdam, combining a warm, relaxed welcome with excellent food and a few refreshingly civilised, open-minded touches of the type that make all the difference to your visit.
You’ll order from a brief, regularly rotated menu, with perhaps four options for each course, but somehow be spoiled for choice by a fairly even mix of dishes to cater to the vegetarian, pescatarian or carnivore in your party. You’ll also have the waters of your decision muddied by the appetising choices which make up the daily specials.
On our visit, our starters –all roulades and rillettes, and fine, fancy slices of ham- found us enjoying small but punchy portions on clean, pretty plates. While the mains were slightly more rustically filling, an eye had clearly been kept trained on inventiveness, flavour and presentation. There is only so much you can do to hussy up a vegetarian brisket though.
Hemelse Modder- which translates as Heavenly Mud- derives its name from its trademark dessert and you’re basically required by Dutch law to order a portion for your pudding.
A silky, decadent and giggly combination of dark and white chocolate mousses served with vanilla cream, this Hemelse Modder is rich without being heavy, and will tick and tickle all your chocolate boxes. Try to savour it and not to just shovel it down your throat like some sophisticated, affluent duck.
Hemelse Modder is a quality institution, with a great local reputation, but the prices remain reasonable. Three courses will cost you € 31,50, and a four course meal, which introduces a soup course after the starters, runs to € 36,00. You aren’t limited to the cheaper options either as the whole a la carte menu falls under the blanket of these offers.
There is also a menu for large groups, with three courses for the same € 31,50, though the choice is slightly abbreviated. Call ahead if there are a lot of you as we, but two small, quiet types, struggled to get a table when first we tried.
Friday night was absolutely bombed out with customers, to the point that they, try as they might and with sincere apologies, couldn’t squeeze our rain-soaked party of two in at all, regardless of our flexibility. Appointed with plenty of tables, homely but contemporary Hemelse Modder creaked less under the strain of its patrons when we returned on Saturday however, so if you’re a weekend diner that is perhaps the better choice.
Visitors needn’t worry about awkwardness, as Hemelse Modder has an open, friendly and gawk-free feel, so don't wimp out and go to McDonalds again. English menus are readily available (they will see you coming in your new Amsterdam hat) and the informal, professional staff all speak English with crystal clarity.
Bright and light, with a laid back, convivial atmosphere, Hemelse Modder delivers good-looking, tasty plates with the minimum of fuss and intrusion so you can just sit back, chat, drink and enjoy the top deck food. That sounds about right doesn’t it?
Our Rating: 
